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Whatever the Crop or the Conditions 
under which it is raised, we can furnish 

The . . . 

Best Fertiliser for it 

TN buying our products you gain all the benefit 
of our own exhaustive experiments in practical 
agriculture, covering more than the third of a century 
° and checked by that of 

Hundreds of thousands of farmers 

Who have used BRADLEY^S FERTILIZERS 
With unvarying satisfaction 

Upon millions of acres of land, 

Upon all kinds of crops, 

Under all the varyii;ig conditions of soil and climate. 
. . . Correspondence Solicited . ♦ . 

Bradley Fertilizer Company, 

BOSTON 
ROCHESTER CLEVELAND BALTIMORE AUGUSTA ° 



UvJWW^AvS^I^ 



J 



INTRODUCTION 



This manual is from the pen of the widely known horticul- 
tural authority, 

EBEN E. REXFORD. 

Floricultural Editor of the Ladies' Home Journal. 

It is a practical treatise, of permanent value, on the care and 
fertilization of 

LAWNS, 

FLOWER GARDENS, 

AND HOUSE PLANTS. 

Descriptions of Bradley 's Fertilizers, the use of which Mr. 
Rexford considers essential in attaining the best results, will 
be found on pages 27 and 28. 

Like all other products of our Company, they are unequaled 
in their lines, and if used according to the directions accom- 
panying each package, will give the best of satisfaction. 

Correspondence solicited. Practical advice gladly given. 



BRADLEY FERTILIZER COMPANY, 

BOSTON. 
Rochester, Cleveland, Baltimore, Augusta. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN and LAWN. 



BY EBEN E. REXFORD. 
Floricultural Editor of the Ladies' Home Journal. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Getting: Ready for Business* 

The first thing to be done in the garden is to spade up the beds as early 
in the season as the ground can be worked to advantage. This does not 
mean, however, as soon as the snow is gone, or the frost is out of the 
ground. You cannot work soil advantageously until the water from 
melting snows and early rains has drained out of it sufficiently to leave it 
somewhat mellow and friable. As long as it is wet, let it alone. But as 
soon as it can be spaded up without clinging to the spade like a mass of 
putty, dig up the beds, and let the sun and wind get at the earth you throw 
out of them. In a short time evaporation will take place, and you will 
find it an easy matter to pulverize the soil into mellowness by the use of 
the hoe and a sharp-toothed iron rake. Work it over and over until there 
are no clods in it. There is no danger of working it too much. The finer 
it is, the better plan+s you will be likely to grow in it. 

Fertilization. 

To grow flowers well, it is quite essential that the soil should be rich. 
True, some plants make fair growth in a soil of ordinary fertility, and 
blossom considerably, but they never come up to the possibilities in them 
unless they are well fed. The amateur florist is likely to fall into the 
mistake of thinking that any soil in which weeds will grow thriftily will 
answer for flowers. But weeds will flourish under conditions very un- 
favorable to the growth of flowers, and if v,^e would grow the latter to 



4 THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 

perfection we must make the soil in which they are grown strong and 
nutritious. Some persons apply barnyard manure. This is good, if old 
and well rotted, but we cannot always obtain it in thr.t condition, and 
most persons cannot get it at all, if they happen to live in city or village, 
without putting themselves to considerable trouble and expense, and then 
they generally have to be satisfied with an inferior article — one in which 
the elements of nutrition are sadly deficient, while the seeds of weeds are 
innumerable. Such a fertilizer will give more vexation than satisfaction, 
for very few of us like to pull weeds from early in spring to the close of 
the season. I have, of late years, given up the use of barnyard manures 
in the garden, because 1 have found, from personal experience, that such 
fertilizers as those prepared and sold by the * Bradley Fertilizer Company 
are superior in every way, and are open to none of the objections urged 
against fertilizers from the barnyard. They are quick and reliable in 
action, lasting in effect, and can always be depended on to do just what 
is claimed for them. Unlike many fertilizers placed on the market with a 
great "flourish of trumpets." they never disappoint. The person who 
tries them one year is sure to keep on using them after that. 

Therefore. 1 would advise the maker of the flower garden to get and 
apply the fertilizers spoken of, in the proportions advised by the company, 
when he is getting his beds ready. Mix it well with the soil. Never use 
it as a top dressing simply, but get it down where the roots of your plants 
will find it, as they reach out and take hold of the earth. 

Seed Sowingf* 

Do not make the serious mistake of sowing seed before the weather has 
become settled. At the North it is not safe to do this before the first or 
the middle of May. We are likely to have cold storms and frost, and if 
these come, seeds sown before their arrival are pretty sure to fail to grow. 
Nothing is gained by early sowing, and quite often all is lost. Let the 
ground be warm and the weather fine before you plant your flowers. 
These conditions will bring about rapid germination and lead to a vigorous 
and healthy development of the young plants. Plants grown from seed 
sown in the beds where they are to grow, under such favorable conditions, 
almost always get ahead of plants started in the house, early in the season, 
because the latter are generally lacking in vitality, and suffer greatly when 
transplanted to the open ground. 

In sowing seed, use it liberally. Some will fail to grow. If the plants 

* See page 27. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 5 

Stand too thick in the rows, it is an easy matter to thin them out. It is 
easier to do this than it is to fill in. Seedlings need not be wasted. You 
can always find some neighbor who will be glad to get the plants you have 
no use for. 

In sowing seed, do not cover it deeply. I find it most satisfactory to 
scatter it on top of the soil of the bed. After this is done, I sift fine earth 
over it, just covering it lightly. Then I press this covering down with a 
smooth board. This is to firm the soil about the seed, and to make it 
compact enough to retain moisture longer than it would if left as it fell. 
This method is advised for seed of ordinary size. Large seed should have 
a deeper covering. Sweet peas ought to be covered to the depth of an 
inch, when sown, and they should be planted very early in the season. 
You need not wait for the frost to be out of the ground before planting 
them. To grow this beautiful flower well, you should sow its seed in 
trenches six inches deep. Cover to the depth of an inch, as advised. 
When the plants have grown to be three inches high, draw in the earth 
about them to within an inch of their top. Continue to do this until all the 
soil taken from the trench at planting time has been returned to it. In 
this way we get plants whose roots are down in the soil where it is cool and 
moist, and unless we do this we need not expect to grow this flower well. 

Necessary Work. 

The amateur florist who expects to reap a bountiful crop of flowers from 
simply sowing the seed, will find that it is quite necessary to do a good 
deal of hard work after he has got his plants to growing. Weeds must be 
kept down from the beginning. Let them once get the start of your flowers 
and the latter will be greatly injured, and you will find it a difficult matter 
to clean out your beds. Therefore begin as soon as it is possible to 
distinguish between flowers and weeds, and make it a habit to pull up each 
weed that puts in an appearance as soon as it is seen. By doing thorough 
work in weeding from the beginning, and keeping up the practise of pulling 
weeds at sight, you can have your garden clean at all times with but a 
fraction of the work that will have to be done if the weeds are once 
allowed to get the start of you. 

Keep the soil open. Stir it frequently with the hoe, or rake, or weeding- 
hook. Some persons have the idea that it is not safe to do this in a dry 
season. Such is not the case, however. When the soil is mellow and 
open, it is in exactly the right condition to take in, and make use of, all the 
moisture from falling dews and slight showers, but, if crusted over, this 



6 THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 

moisture is unable to penetrate it, and the plants suffer in consequence. 
An open soil has something of the porosity of a sponge, and in keeping 
it in that condition we are benefiting plants in a dry season rather than 
harming them. The farmer understands the theory and puts it in practise 
in his cornfield, when he cuUivates it time and again in early summer. 
Instead of wasting what little moisture is in the soil he is putting it in shape 
to absorb more. 

Provide plants needing support with whatever support they are to have 
early in the season. It is easier and safer to do this when they are small 
than when they have made considerable growth, and it helps to distribute 
the work of the season evenly. Some persons let work accumulate, under 
the impression that it will be easier to attend to it " in a lump." This is a 
mistaken idea. Do whatever needs doing at the time it is needed, and in 
this way the season's work can be disposed of in such a manner that it will 
not seem like real work, simply because but little is done at a time. And 
work done leisurely is work done more thoroughly than it ever is when 
done under a pressure of necessity. 

Some General Sugfg:estions» 

Do not undertake more than you know you can do well. The amateur 
florist is, as a general thing, a very enthusiastic person, — at the beginning 
of the season, — and he or she will feel like having a little of everything. 
But by and by enthusiasm wanes to a considerable extent, and then it is 
realized that more has been undertaken than it is possible to do justice to. 
Therefore I always advise growing a few flowers, and growing these few 
well, rather than attempting to grow many and having them inferior be- 
cause not properly taken care of. A dozen fine plants are worth more 
than a whole garden full of /poor ones. 

1 would not invest much money in "novelties." Some of the new 
plants prove to be good ones, but most of them are worthless. Buy only 
such kinds as can be depended on, and let those who can afford to experi- 
ment with the " novelties." 

I would never advise buying '" mixed " seed. If you do this your beds 
will be a jumble of colors, some of which may harmonize, but many of 
which will be at enmity with each other. The only way to bring about 
pleasing results is to know just what colors you are to have. Knowing 
this, it will be an easy matter to arrange them in such a manner as to 
bring about contrast and harmony. The only way to be sure of this is 
to buy packages of seed in which each color is kept by itself. If you do 



THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN, 7 

not care to use as many plants of one kind or color as would be produced 
from a package of seed, club your order with your neighbors, and divide 
the seed when it comes. 



What Kinds to Grow* 

Below I give a list of the most satisfactory olants for the use of the 
amateur : — 

Asters. Candytuft. 

Balsams. Zinnias, 

Calliopsis. Marigolds. 

Sweet Peas. Larkspurs. 

Pansies. Ten Weeks' Stock. 

Petunias. Poppies. 

Verbenas. Centaureas. 

Phlox. Nasturtiums. 

Whitlavia. Chinese Pinks. 

Snapdragon. Morning Glories. 

Sweet Alyssum. Portulacas. 

The above must not be considered as a complete list by any means. It 
is given as one which the beginner in floriculture will do well to confine 
selections to until experience has made it possible for him to give more 
exacting plants the care they require in order to grow them successfully. 
These are all of easy culture. Give them a good soil, keep the weeds 
away from them, and prevent them from form.ing seed, and they will 
bloom through the greater portion of the season with great brilliance and 
freedom. 

Climbmgf Plants* 

Sweet Peas. Wild Cucumber. 

Morning Glories. Japanese Hop. 

The Gourds. 

Plants for Edgfingf. 

Sweet Alyssum. Pansies. 

Candytuft. Portulacas. 

Late Bloomers* 

Asters. Ten Weeks' Stock. 



8 THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 

Bulbs and Tuberous Plants* 

By all means have a bed of gladiolus. This is one of our most beauti- 
ful flowers. It is of the easiest possible culture. Any one can grow it. 
It is sold so cheaply that a small amount of money will buy bulbs enough 
to fill quite a bed. and no investment will give better satisfaction. 

The single and semi-double dahlias are charming flowers. Give them a 
very rich soil, and keep it moist throughout the season, and you will be 
delighted with them. 

Tuberoses are beautiful flowers when well grown. To succeed with 
them, it is necessary to start them in the house, in small pots. Do not put 
them out until the weather is warm. Give them a sunny place and a light, 
rich, warm soil. 

Cannas are charming plants, both in foliage and flower. Plant them in 
clumps, and you secure a fine effect. 

Caladiums are excellent for the center of beds, because of their tropical 
foliage. To succeed with them, they must be highly fed and kept moist 
at the roots. 

Border Plants* 

The busy woman will do well to make a collection of hardy border 

plants. These, when once established, are good for years, and they 

require much less attention than the annuals. I give a list of the best ones 
for general cultivation : — 

Perennial Phlox. Spireas. 

Hollyhocks. Peonies. 

Delphinium. Pyrethrums. 

Dicentra. Digitalis. 

Coreopsis lanceolata. Aquilegias. 

Gaillardia. Iris. 

Best Flowers fc«r Cutting;. 

Calliopsis. Asters. 

Sweet Peas. Petunias. 

Nasturtiums. Poppies. 

Single and semi-double Dahlias. Pansies. 

Sweet Alyssum. Gladiolus. 

In order to secure a profuse and constant succession of bloom through- 
out the season, it is very important tnat seed should not be allowed to 



THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. V 

form. If this is done, the energies of the plant will be thrown into its 
perfection, and but few flowers will be produced after the first general 
crop. But cut away all seed-vessels, or, what is better, remove all flowers 
when they begin to fade, and the plant will at once begin to make a new 
effort to perpetuate itself. The first step in this direction is the formation 
of flowers. By thus interfering with the processes of nature, it is an easy 
matter to make most plants go on. producing flowers until the latter partof 
summer. It is quite necessary that this should be done if you expect a 
succession of bloom from a majority of the plants named in the foregoing 
lists. 

During the latter part of the season, it is well to cut away many of the 
old branches of the plants. When this is done, fertilize the soil well about 
them with the Bradley manures, and a new growth will promptly result 
from which superior flowers will be produced until the coming of frost. 



Part IL 
MAKING A LAWN, 

Nothing adds so much to the attractiveness of a home, be it large or 
small, as a neat, well-kept lawn. Without it, the home is like a picture 
without a frame. Flowers are beautiful, and no home should ever be 
without them, but they should never prevent us from having a stretch of 
rich green sward about the house, and between it and the road or street. 
Its cool, refreshing color rests the eye, and the large or little sweep of 
greenness gives an air of quiet dignity and repose to the place that can 
never be attained without it. By all means have a lawn, no matter how 
small it is, and keep your flower beds to one side or the rear of it. Never 
mar a small lawn by cutting it up with beds. A clean, free stretch of 
sward is vastly more pleasing than one broken up by flower beds and 
shrubbery, unless it is of considerable size. 

There are lawns and lawns. Some are self-made ; but these, while better 
than none at all, are never quite satisfactory. They lack that depth and 
richness of turf which is to the lawn what the pile is to velvet, and they 
lack this because the proper material has not been used. To secure a fine 
lawn it is necessary to sow such seed as produces a thick, deep sward, 
and this our native grasses do not do. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. ^ ^ 

Preparing the Soil. 

The first thing to be done is to grade the yard and put the soil into 
proper condition to produce a strong, fine growth of grass. This may be 
done by spading or plowing. On small places the spade is most satis- 
factory. On large places the plow will save time and labor. But bear 
in mind, whatever tool is used, that much of the future welfare of your 
lawn depends upon its beginning. Begin right and do thorough work, 
and you are reasonably sure of success. 

Spade or plow the soil to the depth of a foot or more. Make it fine and 
mellow, and level it. or grade it to the slope desired if it is to have a 
descent from the house to the road or street. And be very sure, at this 
stage of proceedings, to see that it is made very rich by the liberal appli- 
cation of * Bradley's Fertilizer, or something equally as good. Never 
apply a manure from the barnyard if it is possible to procure the fertilizer 
named, because such manure, not rich in nutriment, is absolutely certain to 
introduce weeds, and there will have to be a fight from the beginning to 
keep them down. And unless they are kept down your lawn will not be a 
success. They not only rob the grass of the nutriment it should receive 
during its early stage of existence, but the removal of thsm will seriously 
interfere with the satisfactory formation of a strong, fine sward. Preven- 
tion is bette- than cure : therefore use no manure that contains the seeds 
of weeds. The use of Bradley s Fertilizer will produce a rich, velvety 
lawn that will be a "thing of beauty and a joy forever," if occasional 
renewals of its application are made. 

If the soil is heavy add sand, ashes, or old mortar, if obtainable, to 
lighten it. Incorporate these with the soil at the time the fertilizer is 
applied, and work them all in together until you have a light, mellow bed 
for the reception of seed. If drainage is not naturally good, use tile to 
carry off surplus water. On ordinary small lots, however, no drainage of 
this sort will be necessary. 



The Time to Begfin 

is early in spring. Spade or plow the soil, and leave it for a time for the 
wind, and sun, and rain to act upon. After a little it will be in a proper 
condition to pulverize easily. You cannot work it too much. The finer 
It is, the better your chances of success. 



* See page 27- 



12 THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 

If there are hollows or depressions in the surface, be sure to have them 
filled before sowing is done. The time to attend to these little details, 
which are really important ones, is while the lawn is in a formative state. 
Complete each part of the work as you go along. Do not think thaft you 
can go back to it later on and do whatever you are inclined to neglect to 
do now, and have the result a satisfactory one. You cannot. Success 
depends on thoroughness as the work proceeds. Bear that in mind, and 
slight nothing. 

Seedingf the Lawn. 

The best seed for the lawn is composed of several kinds of grass which 
have the habit of spreading or " stooling " freely, thus forming a thick 
mass of leaves close to the soil, with a proper proportion of white clover, 
whose creeping habit makes it valuable in helping to completely cover the 
soil at an early period of the lawn's existence. In buying seed, get only 
the best, and patronize only such dealers as you have confidence in, as 
much depends on the purity of the seed used. Cheap mixtures are generally 
made up of inferior varieties of grasses, and often contain the seeds of 
weeds. The " Lawn-grass Mixtures," sold by reputable seedsmen, are the 
cheapest, because they are the best. 

In order to produce satisfactory and immediate results, sow seed thickly. 
The estimate of those who have had wide experience in lawn-making, is 
that it is advisable to sow at the rate of four bushels of seed to an acre. 
There is nothing gained by attempting to economize in quantity of seed 
used. A thinly seeded lawn will be lacking in depth and richness of turf, 
while a thickly seeded one will have a velvety appearance from the start. 
Thin sowing makes it necessary to wait until the second season for satis- 
factory results. 

How and When to Sow* 

It may seem to be a very easy thing to sow a lawn properly, but it is 
not. The seed used is light as air, almost, and a slight puff of wind will 
blow it where it ought not to go. Therefore select a perfectly still time in 
which to sow your seed. Quite early in the morning is generally the best 
time in which to do this work. Begin at one side, and sow across. Then 
return to that side, and sow across again over another strip. Do this until 
you have been over the ground. Then, to make sure of even seeding, 
sow at right angles with the first sowing. The seed is so fine that you 
have to judge of effects as it leaves the hand and settles, for it will hardly 
be noticeable after it reaches the soil. It is a good plan to roll the surface, 



THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 13 

or in some way firm it down after sowing. This presses the seed into the 
soil and prevents its being blown away. It also assists in its germination, 
because making the soil compact helps it to retain the moisture which is 
necessary at this period. 

Mowingf the Lawn* 

Do not mow a newly seeded lawn until the grass has grown to a height 
of at least four inches. To cut it at an earlier stage of growth is to seri- 
ously injure it. Have the mower set so that it will not cut close to the 
roots at first. The aim in early mowing is simply to clip the top and 
prevent upward growth. This done, the grass "stools" out and thickens 
at the crown of the plant, and in this manner is formed the foundation of 
a sward that will prove satisfactory. Too close cutting injures the crown 
of the plant while it is young. 

In moist seasons the grass will grow rapidly, and it will be necessary to 
cut it often. If there is a drouth, let the clippings remain on the sward to 
act as a mulch and give some protection to the roots from the hot sun, 
but be careful and not allow the cut grass to lie in bunches on the lawn 
while wet, as it will gather heat as soon as the sun touches it and burn the 
roots of the grass. In cities and villages where connection can be had 
with some system of water works, the lawn can be sprinkled daily, and 
the sward kept rich and green throughout the season, but it is not practi- 
cable to do this where well or cistern must be depended on. When a 
good turf is once secured, a lawn will stand an ordinary drouth very well 
without the application of water. 

The Care of the Lawn* 

Much of the beauty of a lawn depends on the neatness with which it is 
kept. Dead leaves, rubbish, and refuse of all kinds should be removed 
promptly, and nothing allowed to disfigure its surface. A lawn rake 
having teeth of bent wire will take up anything from the grass without in 
the least injuring its roots, as is frequently done when a sharp-toothed 
rake is used. In buying a mower select one that does good, smooth 
work and runs easily. Keep it sharp and well oiled and it will be a 
pleasure to operate it. 

Fertilizing: the Lawn. 

To keep up the beauty of a lawn it will be necessary to feed the grass 
well. You cannot expect it to retain that depth and richness of texture 



14 



THE FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 



and color which characterizes it while young after the elements of plant 
food have been exhausted. That which the plants take from the soil in 
their development must be supplied from time to time, in order to keep 
the grass up to a high standard of health. Some persons disfigure their 
lawns in fall by spreading coarse manure over them, under the impres- 
sion that they will be greatly benefited by the application. Such is not 
the case, however. The fertilizing elements of the manure are dissipated 
and wasted in winter, to a great degree, by the action of the elements. 
As a protection, it amounts to nothing. Wait until spring comes, and 
then sow broadcast (scatter) such a fertilizer as that prepared by the 
Bradley Company over the soil as soon as the snow is gone. Sow it lib- 
erally, and as soon as the grass begins to start it will take on that rich, 
dark color which betokens a nutritious soil, and the result will be a sward 
of great depth and beauty, and your lawn will be a source of constant 
pleasure to you. 

\i you would grow any plant well, you must feed it well. Bear that in mind, 
and see that both flower garden and lawn are well fertilized. 



USE ONLY 

Bradley^s English Lawn Fertilizer, 

On your Lawns, Flower beds, and Kitchen Gardens. 
It is the best fertilizer manufactured for this purpose. 



LOOK 

FOR THE 

SICKLE. 



! 

I ENGLISH 

mhmm 

^ teg rFeriilk to 



■ NONE 
GENUINE 
without it. 



See description and prices on page 27. 



HOUSE-PLANTS. 

How to Grow Them, and What Kinds to Growo 



BY EBEN E. REXFORD. 
Flon'cultura! Editor of the Ladies' Home Journal. 



Soil for Pot Plants, 

One of the most important items in the successful cuhure of plants iri 
pots is that of soil. Many persons attempt to grow plants in whatever 
soil happens to be at hand, but their attempts are often unsatisfactory 
To grow plants well, the soil should be porous, mellow, as a general 
thing, and of a quality calculated to supply the growing plant with nutri- 
ment. A plant must be fed in order to secure proper development, the 
same as a child. Given a poor soil it may live indefinitely, but its growth 
will be weak and stunted, and its flowers, if any are produced, will be 
inferior. 

It is not necessary, however, as many used to believe, that each family 
of plants should have a special preparation of soil made for it. Nearly all 
plants adapted to window culture will flourish in a soil prepared after the 
following formula : — 

Loam (ordinary garden soil) f 

Leafmold f 

Sand 3 

The sand should always be coarse and gritty. Mix all parts together, 
and to such a quantity of soil as will fill an eight-inch pot add a heaping 
tablespoonful of fertilizer, mixing it in well. Such a soil will be friable, 
mellow, and one in which plants will make a strong and healthy growth. 
If leafmold is npt easily obtainable, go into an old pasture, turn over some 

15 



HOUSE- PLANTS. 17 

sod. and shave off that portion immediately under the grass tops. These 
will be full of fine, fibrous roots, and these, as they decay, will furnish a 
vegetable matter almost equal to that from decayed leaves. 

For plants having strong roots, like roses and palms, more loam and less 
leafmold should be used. For plants having very fine roots, like heliotrope 
and fern, use more leafmold and less loam. 



Drainagfe* 

In all pots more than five inches across the top, be sure to have good 
drainage. This is very important, and not a whim, as some seem to think. 
The object of drainage is to allow the surplus water to pass readily out of 
the soil. If it were retained there, a sour soil would soon be the result, 
and the young and tender roots of plants would be injured, and disease 
would attack the plant. If chance for the escape of water is given, only 
enough moisture will be retained by the soil to supply the needs of the 
plant, and there will be no danger from over-watering. Dramage in a pot 
is equivalent to the practise of underdraining among farmers. Fields that 
were worthless because of sour soil from stagnant water have been made 
valuable by draining them, and the principle involved is one that the 
floriculturist who would be successful must make use of. 

There should be at least two inches of drainage material in each pot. 
For this purpose use old pottery, bricks, crockery, charcoal — anything 
that will not readily decay. Pound whatever is used until it is in pieces 
the size of a walnut, and use the coarsest part in the bottom of the pot. 
It is a good plan to put some sphagnum moss or a piece of sod, if moss is 
not at hand, over the drainage material before filling the pot with soil. 
This prevents the soil from washing down and filling the crevices in the 
broken pottery until the source of exit for surplus water is clogged up. 
Always see that the hole in the bottom of the pot is kept open. 

Potting, 

In potting plants great care must be taken not to injure tender, delicate 
roots. If you are shifting a plant from a small pot to a larger one, it will 
not be necessary to disturb its roots. Simply invert the pot in which the 
plant is growing, holding the hand across its top with the stem of the plant 
between the first and second fingers : then give the pot a sharp tap on the 
bench, or something firm, and the entire ball of earth will slip out readily. 
If the plant has been watered just before repotting, the soil will not crumble 



18 HOUSE-PLANTS. 

away from the roots. Place the ball of earth in the center of the pot to 
which the plant is to be shifted — first having put an inch or two of soil in 
its bottom, above the drainage material — -and then fill in about it with soil, 
working it down carefully with the fingers and by jarring the pot from 
time to time. When the pot is full to within an inch of the top, add no 
more soil but water the plant well. This will settle the soil firmly about 
the roots. Put the plant in a shady place and leave it there for a week or 
ten days, to become established in its new quarters before exposing it to 
sunshine. In potting a plant whose roots have been shaken out of the 
soil in which they have been growing, be careful to spread those roots out 
naturally, and sift fine earth among them, settling it by jarring rather than 
crowding with the hand, as it is very easy to injure a plant by breaking its 
roots if much pressure is exerted on them. 

Repotting is something that should be attended to whenever the old pot 
is filled With roots. To neglect it at this stage of its development is sure 
to check it, and very often it so interferes with the welfare of the plant that 
it never fully recovers. Slip the ball of earth out of the pot and ascertain 
the condition the roots of the plant are in. If they form a thick network 
about the soil, you may be sure that a larger pot is required. But do not 
make the common mistake of giving small plants a large pot. To do this 
is a mistaken kindness. As a general thing, the new pot should be but 
one or two sizes larger than the one in which the plant has been growing. 

Young plants, grown from cuttings, or those just received from the 
florist, should on no account be given large pots. Three and four inch 
pots are quite large enough. 

Watering, 

How to water plants seems to be a question that sorely puzzles most 
amateurs. Some give an application daily, without regard to the season, 
the condition of the soil, or the needs of the plant. Others go to the other 
extreme, and give no water until the plant wilts from lack of moisture. 
Some go on the " little-and-often " plan, and give enough to moisten the 
top of the soil every time they think of it. In effect, this is the worst plan 
of all. as generally the surface of the soil only will be moist. Below that, 
the soil will be very dry — as dry as dust, in most instances, in summer 
time, — and, of course, no plant can be expected to grow unless moisture 
penetrates as far down as the roots of the plant extend. 
There is but one general rule to follow, and that is this : — 
Wait until the surface of the soil looks dry. Then apply enough water to 



HOUSE-PLANTS. 



19 



thoroughly saturate all the soil in the pot. You can tell when this is done by 
the escape of some water through the hole in the bottonn of the pot. Then 
wait until the surface again looks dry before making another appUcation. 

There can be no rule as to frequency of application. Be governed by 
the appearance of the soil, and water daily, triweekly, or twice a week, as 
seems necessary. But be sure to do it thoroughly. Some plants, like the 
calla, require a good deal of water. Others require but little. These are 
exceptions to the general rule given above, and their habits must be 
studied before you can intelUgently care for them. Observation of effects 
will tell you just how much water to give your plants, and when to give it. 
Each person should learn to decide this matter for himself or herself, be- 
cause conditions differ so widely that the general rule must be modified 
more or less. 

Showeringf. 

Water overhead is very beneficial to many plants. Some, like the 
fuchsia, cannot be grown to perfection unless showered daily. Others, 
like the rex begonia and the gloxinia, having hairy foliage, are injured by 
showering. If drops of water fall and stand on the leaves, they will soon 
be disfigured or completely spoiled. Hence the rule : — Shower smooth- 
leaved plants only. Do this when the sun is not shining on them. The 
water should have a chance to dry off before the sun strikes them. 

For showering plants I have seen nothing superior to the little force 
pump whose piston can be worked with one hand while the other manages 
a hose to which there is attached a nozzle throwing a solid stream or a 
spray that can be graduated to a mist if desirable. The purtip is held in 
place in a pail of water by an iron brace, which extends over the pail to 
the floor. The person working the pump places his foot on the flat end of 
the brace and holds the pump firm and upright. By the use of this pump 
it is an easy matter to throw water all over and among the plants in any 
quantity. Next to this in availability is the brass syringe made for florists' 
use. But it is a clumsy thing compared with the pump mentioned. 
Hand-sprinklers, whisk-brooms, and the like are. of course, better than 
nothing, but they are never satisfactory. 

Make it a rule to shower all plants that like a bath daily. It not only 
helps the plants to grow, but it keeps them clean, and where water is used 
freely there is but little danger of injury from red spider. 

Light* 

Strong Hght is necessary for most plants, and flowering plants, as a 



20 HOUSE-PLANTS. 

general thing, must have plenty of sunshine. Southern windows are best 
of all. Next to these are eastern ones. Palms and plants of that class 
can be grown in windows having a northern exposure. Western windows 
are too hot in summer for any plant except the cactus. 

Dispense with curtains. Let in all the light and sun possible. 

Place tall or large plants at the sides of the ordinary window, and put 
small, low-growing ones next the glass, and in the middle, so that al'l can 
get a chance at the sunshine. Those that do not "care for the sun can be 
given a place back of the tall or large plants where they can be protected 
from its strong rays without being deprived of a good light. 

Temperature. 

In ordinary living rooms the temperature is almost always too high for 
the healthy development of plants. It will generally be found at 80 to 95 
degrees. Both plants and persons would be better off if it could be kept 
at 65 or 70. It is not safe to let it fall below 55 degrees in rooms con- 
taining a mixed collection of plants, as very tender sorts are quite often 
injured nearly as much by a chill as by a decided freeze. Have the 
windows at which plants stand snug and tight, to keep out wind and drafts. 
On very cold nights place a thick paper between the plants and glass. 
Double sash is very desirable in winter, as it does away with the necessity 
of moving the plants from the glass. 

Fresh Air. 

Fresh air is very essential to successful plant culture. In close rooms, 
the vitality of the air is soon exhausted, and there must be a new and 
regular supply to make and keep it what it ought to be. It is an excellent 
plan to open a door or window at some distance from the plants, and let 
the air from out of doors come in and mix with that of the room. In this 
manner its chill will be taken off before it reaches the plants, without being 
robbed of its purity to any great extent. If allowed to blow directly on 
your plants they would be injured by it, as outdoor air, in winter, has a 
frostiness in it that would be sure to injure almost any plant with which it 
comes in contact. Be sure to temper this frostiness before it reaches the 
window where your plants are. 

By giving fresh air, as advised, several times a day, you will be surprised 
to see what a beneficial effect it has on your plants, if you have been in 
the habit of keeping them in a room that has been getting but little fresh 



HOUSE-PLANTS. 21 

air. They will take on fresh strength and vigor, and much of the danger 
of blighting buds will be done away with. But be sure never to open the 
window at which they stand, in cold weather, so that the cold air can blow 
directly upon them. Bear this in mind and it may save you a good deal 
of trouble. 

Moisture in the Air. 

In the living-room the air is almost sure to be very dry. Plants cannot 
be expected to do well in it. To remedy the defect, shower the plants well 
and keep basins of water constantly evaporating on stove or register. If 
a table is used for your plants, nail a strip of wood two inches in width 
around its edge, and cover it to that depth with sand, which should be 
kept always wet, thus securing constant and steady evaporation which 
will be of great benefit to your plants. 

Insects and Insecticides. 

Plants have their enemies, and it is often necessary to fight for their 
lives. The most com.mon one is the aphis or green plant-louse. This 
can be routed by fumigating, or by the use of an emulsion of kerosene 
prepared by churning two parts oil with one part slightly sour milk till a 
union takes place. Use one part of this emulsion to fifteen parts water, 
and apply the liquid with a syringe or spray, being sure to reach all pArts 
of the plant with it. This emulsion is also sure death to mealy bug and 
scale. The red spider can only be routed and kept down by the liberal 
use of water. He will not stay where the water is kept moist. 

Worms in the soil can be got rid of by using lime-water. Put a piece 
of fresh lime as large as a teacup in a pailful of water. When it has dis- 
solved pour off the clear water and apply enough of it to each pot to 
thoroughly saturate the soil in it. Repeat the operation if necessary. 

Propagfation. 

Most plants are propagated from cuttings or " slips." A cutting should 
not be too old or too young, but about half way between the tender and 
the ripened growth. It should be taken from a strong and healthy branch, 
and be from three to four inches in length. Remove all the leaves except 
those at the tip. Insert the base of it in your propagating dish, and make 
the soil firm about it. Water well and put it in a warm place. Roots 
will soon form if conditions are favorable. I have best success in rooting 



22 



HOUSE-PLANTS. 



cuttings in clear, sharp sand. I use a shallow vessel like a soup plate. 
This I fill to the brim with sand and apply enough water to nnake it wet 
all through. It will be necessary to keep it moist at all times. To do this, 
put on water about twice a day, in a warm room, as evaporation will be 
rapid. Keep it in a warm place and a light one. 

Generally cuttings will root in about a week. In ten days most of them 
will begin to grow. In three weeks they can be put in little pots, being 
very careful not to break their delicate roots. 

Some plants can be increased by a division of the roots, like ferns, 
aspidistras, chrysanthemums, rex begonias, callas, and amaryllis. 

Cuttings of English ivy, oleander, and some other plants of that class, 
having thick, leathery skin, can be rooted most satisfactorily in vials of 
rainwater, suspended in a sunny window. Simply drop the cuttings in 
the water, and see that it never dries out about their base. 



Flowering- Plants for the Window* 

The following list will be found to comprise most of the flowering plants 
adapted to general cultivation in the window : — 



Abutilons, in variety. 




Eupatorium. 


Geraniums, in variety. 




Stevia. 


Begonias, in variety. 




Plumbago. 


Fuchsias, in variety. 




Gloxinia. 


Hibiscus, in variety. 




Cyclamen. 


Amaryllis, in variety. 




Primula Obconica. 


Chrysanthemums, in variety. 




Chinese Primrose. 


Lantanas, in variety. 




Calla. 


Agapanthus. 




Vallotta. 


Streptosolen. 




Pelargonium. 


Carnation. 




Achania. 


Roses. 




Oleander. 


Decorative 


Plants. 




Palms. 




Agave. 


Ficus, 




Dracena. 


Aspidistra. 




Anthericum. 


Grevillea. 




Coleus. 


Strobilanthes. 





HOUSE-PLANTS. 



23 



Hanging: Plants. 

The following plants are among the best for baskets : — 

Othonna. Lysimachia. 

Oxalis. Tradescantia. 

Saxifrage. Petunias. 

Moneywort. Ivy Leaf Geraniums. 

Tall Gfowingf Plants* 

The following plants grow to be five, six, and seven feet high, and 
become quite little trees with age : — 

Oleander. Ficus. 

Abutilon. Rose Geranium, 

Achania. Grevillea. 

Summer Blooming Plants. 

The foUowmg list comprises such plants as are summer bloomers. In 
the winter they should be put in the cellar, or kept in some cool, frost- 
proof place with very little water at their roots. They will not be harmed 
if they become so dry that they lose their foliage : — 

Fuchsias. (With the exception of Speciosa. which 

is the only really good winter bloomer.) 
Tuberous Begonias. Valletta. 

Gloxinia. Oleander. 

Hibiscus. Plumbago. 

Vines for the House* 

English Ivy. Passion Flower. 

Hoya. (Wax Plant.) Cobea. 

Madeira Vine. Jasmine grandiflorum. 

Senecio. (German Ivy.) 

Plants for Shady Windows. 

Palms. Primula Obconica. 

Aspidistra. Sword Fern. 



24 HOUSE-PLANTS. 

Calla. Lycopodium. 

Chinese Primrose. Asparagus plumosus. 

Some of the begonias having white flowers. 

Bulbs* 

Tulips. Bermuda Lily. 

Hyacinths. Narcissus. 

Chinese Lily. 

How to Grow Bulbs in the Window. 

This little treatise would not be complete if 1 were to neglect to say 
something about the proper method of growing bulbs in the house. Most 
persons buy their bulbs in the fall, pot them, and place them at once in the 
window. The resuU is, roots and top begin to grow at the same time, and 
we have a weak plant from which we get inferior flowers if any, — generally 
none at all. The mistake made consists in putting the plants in the warmth 
and light before roots have formed, thus exciting a premature growth of 
the top. Tne bulbs should be potted in a rich, mellow soil, watered well, 
and put in a dark, cool place and left there until roots form. This is very 
important. If this is done, there will be something to support and nourish 
the top when it begins to put forth, which will be as soon as we bring the 
plant to the light and warmth. Thus we get a healthy and natural develop- 
ment, which is never the case when the top is allowed to develop before 
there are good, strong roots. Bear this in mind, and be sure to give your 
bulbs at least a month in the cellar, in which to form roots. When they 
are brought up, and the top begins to grow, dig in a spoonful of fertilizer 
about each plant. 

Sometimes hyacinths will form buds which do not properly develop. 
The spike on which they are borne will not shoot up as it ought to. To 
overcome this defect, make a cone of thick paper. Cut off the apex of it. 
making a hole about two inches across. Place this cone over the plant. 
The buds will want the light, and as they cannot get it if they remain 
snuggled down among the leaves, they will reach up towards the hole in 
the covering given them, and thus they are coaxed into a more satisfactory 
development. 

Training Plants* 

Some persons like to have their plants shrubby, bushy, and compact. 
Others prefer to grow them in tree form. It is an easy matter to grow 
them to suit one's taste in this respect, if we begin right. 



HOUSE-PLANTS. 



25 



If you want your plant to be like a little shrub, take it in hand when 
small. As soon as it is four or five inches high, pinch off its top. Gen- 
erally, several branches will start below. Encourage as many of these 
to grow as you think will be necessary to give body to the plant. When 
they have grown to the height of a foot, nip off their ends. In this way 
you can secure as many branches as you want, making the plant thick 
and compact without having it very tall. 1 prefer this form for such plants 
as fuchsias, chrysanthemums, and lantanas. 

If you prefer a tree form, allow but one stalk to grow. When it has 
reached a height of two. three, or four feet, according to the height you 
desire the head to be. pinch off its top. Branches will be likely to start 
all along the stalk, but only four or five near the top should be allowed to 
remain. Let these grow to a length of five or six inches. Then pinch 
their ends off. This will induce them to put forth branches, and in this 
way you secure a '• head " for your tree. 

Fuchsias that are of slender habit should have a central support. Tie 
the main stalk to it. and let the branches droop to suit themselves. Never 
fasten a fuchsia to a flat trellis if you want it to look graceful. 

Some Common Plants for the Window. 

The ordinary single petunia is an excellent plant for the window in 
summer or winter. It will bloom constantly and profusely, and give you 
much pleasure because it is such a bright, cheerful plant. Cut it back in 
the fall, and new branches will be put forth from which it will produce a 
profusion of flowers until spring. It makes a charming plant for a bracket. 

Ten weeks' stock is a fine winter bloomer if grown in pots during the 
summer. Having a long tap root, it does not transplant well. It is not 
only pretty, but it is very fragrant and blooms profusely. 

The best rose for the house is agrippina — dark crimson. Queen's 
scarlet is very much like it in form and color, but has larger flowers. I 
would not advise the amateur to attempt to grow any other varieties until 
success has been attained with these. 

The Use of Fertilizers. 

I have given up the use of barnyard fertilizers, because they are almost 
sure to breed worms in the soil. I find a fertilizer prepared after scientific 
formulae, such as * Bradley s Flower Food, not only entirely safe, but quite 
as effective as the best manures from the barnyard, and vastly more uni- 



See page 28. 



26 



HOUSE-PLANTS. 



form in its action. Apply it according to directions, and you know just 
what it will do. It is inoffensive, easy to use. and prompt in its effects. 
It produces a strong, healthy, luxuriant growth of leaves, and large, fine 
flowers of the richest color and texture. There may possibly be other 
fertilizers that are as good as this, but there are none better, as recent 
personal experience has proved. It can be applied by mixing it with the 
soil about the roots of the plants, or by dissolving it in water. Instructions 
for its use accompany it, so that the user need make no mistake about the 
quantity to use or the frequency with which it should be applied. 

Most plants have a period of rest. They stand still for a time. The 
impatient amateur is not satisfied with this, and wants them to grow, and 
frequently he applies a fertilizer to bring about the desired result. This is 
wrong. If a plant looks healthy, but does not grow, let it alone. Give 
just enough water to keep it from drying up. By and by, when it has 
rested sufficiently, it will begin to grow, and not till then should any 
fertilizer or stimulant be used. If the amateur will remember never to 
apply a fertilizer to a dormant or a sick plant, he may save himself from the 
loss of plants that he values highly. A plant which is not m.aking active 
growth is not in a condition to make use of rich food. Therefore wait 
until it begins to grow before you" feed your plant. Remember that. 

If your plants have not been repotted lately, you will doubtless find that 
they are not doing well. It may not be convenient to repot them now. 
and it will not be necessary to do so if you use the fertilizer spoken of. It 
contains all the elements of plant growth, in a condensed form, and will 
give vigor to your starved plants in a manner that will please you as well 
as them. 



1/ RfiWEP, 





On house plants use only Bradley's Concentrated 
Flower Food. See pag^e 28. 



BRADLEY'S 

English Lawn Fertilizer. 

An Odorless Chemical Fertilizer for Lawns and Kitchen 

Gardens. 

S^ -4^ This is a high-grade chemical fertilizer, 

/ ENGLISH j especially prepared to promote the vigorous 
l!i^''d!!S 1 ^"^^ healthy growth of luxuriant grass, en- 
i rr"^»» """ I ^'^bling it to withstand rough usage and the 
[ Wey Perir ffi I protracted heat of summer. 
l^^^^i-^^. • Being free from weed seeds, and odorless, 

i^-Jl i ' ■■ '"■ ^^ ^^ ^^^ superior to unsightly and strong- 
smelling stable dressing for use on lawns 
and tennis courts. 

Put up in strong bags of lo, 25, 50, 100, and 200 lbs. 
each. Full directions accompany each package. 

QUANTITIES to USE and PRICES : 

10 lb. bag for 1 ,000 sq. ft. of lawn, or 500 sq. ft. 

of garden $ .50 

25 lb. bag for 2,500 sq. ft. of lawn, or 1 ,200 sq. 

ft. of garden 1 .OO 

50 lb. bag for 5,000 sq. ft. of lawn, or 2,500 sq. 

ft. of garden ] 75 

1 00 lb. bag for 1 -4- acre of lawn, or 1 -8 acre of garden, 3.00 

200 lb. bag for 1 -2 acre of lawn, or 1 -4 acre of garden, 5.50 

Kt^ Take no substitute, but insist on having the genuine " English Lawn." 

It is manufactured by permission exclusively by 

Bradley Fertilizer Company, 

BOSTON, MASS. 
27 



BRADLEYS 

Concentrated Flower Food, 




THE LILY BRAND. 

For House Plants and for Florists' Use. 



THIS Fertilizer is prepared expressly to promote the growth and beauty 
of plants. It contains in concentrated and available forms the plant- 
food elements required to produce healthy growth and perfect develop- 
ment. It changes the color of the leaves to a dark green, increases the 
number, beauty, and fragrance of the flowers, and in short, if properly ap- 
plied, will change weak and stunted plants to thriving and vigorous ones. 
Jt is in a powdered form, entirely inodorous, and hence especially adapted 
for use on parlor plants, as well as for enriching the soil when bedded out 
in the spring. 

Cut Flowers. By the addition of a small quantity of this Fertilizer to 
the water in which cut flowers are placed, they may be preserved for at 
least two days longer than under ordinary circumstances. A small pinch 
is enough for one half pint (cupful) of water. After one trial, no florist, 
whether professional or amateur, will be without it. 

Put up in boxes, two sizes, No. i, sufificient for twenty-five plants, one 
year, by mail, postpaid, 50 cents. 

No. 2, sufficient for twenty-five plants, three months, by mail, postpaid, 
20 cents. 

For sale by florists and our local agents, or we will send it by mail to any 
address on receipt of charges as above. 

Full directions with each package. 



BRADLEY FERTILIZER COMPANY, 



Boston, Hass. 

28 



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BRADLEY FERTILIZER COMPANY, 

92 State Street, Boston, Mass. 



BRADLEYS 

FERTILIZERS 




THB PINKUAM PRESS, BOSTON, MASS. 



